You plugged in a brand-new network switch, connected your router, attached your devices, and nothing. The lights blink, the cables look fine, but there is no internet on the other end. If you are staring at your setup wondering why your network switch will not pass internet to connected devices, you are in good company. This is one of the most common home networking problems people face, and the fix is usually simpler than you think.
Our team has spent years helping users troubleshoot this exact issue across Reddit, Netgear community forums, Spiceworks, and direct support calls. The problem almost always comes down to one of a handful of causes: wrong port, bad cable, DHCP failure, speed mismatch, or a misconfigured managed switch. In rare cases, the switch itself has gone bad.
In this guide, we walk you through every possible reason your network switch is not passing internet to connected devices, ranked from most common to least common. We start with a quick 30-second checklist for fast fixes, then dive deep into each cause with step-by-step instructions. By the end, you will know exactly what is wrong and how to fix it.
One important note before we start. A network switch is a wired device. It does not connect to Wi-Fi and does not create wireless signals. If you are trying to get Wi-Fi through a switch, you may actually need an access point instead. We cover that distinction later in this article.
Table of Contents
Quick 30-Second Diagnosis Checklist
Before you tear apart your network setup, run through this fast checklist. These seven checks solve the problem for the majority of users in under a minute.
1. Verify the cable from your router goes into a LAN port, not the WAN port. If you plugged the switch into the WAN port on your router, devices on the switch will not get internet. The WAN port connects to your modem. Everything else, including your switch, connects to LAN ports numbered 1, 2, 3, or 4.
2. Confirm the switch is connected to a router, not directly to a modem. Unless your modem is actually a combination modem-router gateway, plugging a switch directly into a modem will not work. The modem does not assign IP addresses through DHCP. Only a router does that.
3. Check that the port LEDs light up when you plug in each cable. No light means no physical link. Swap the cable, try a different port, or test with a known working device.
4. Power cycle everything in order. Turn off the modem, then the router, then the switch. Wait 30 seconds. Turn on the modem, wait for it to fully boot, then the router, wait again, then the switch. This resolves a surprising number of issues.
5. Try a different ethernet cable. A damaged cable can show a link light but fail to pass data reliably. We have seen cables that work for short runs but fail over longer distances.
6. Test a device directly on the router. Plug your device straight into a router LAN port. If it gets internet there but not through the switch, the switch or its cable is your culprit.
7. Check for an IP address on the connected device. On Windows, open Command Prompt and type ipconfig. If you see a 169.254.x.x address, your device is not getting an IP from the router’s DHCP server. That points to a DHCP or configuration problem.
If none of these quick fixes solved your problem, do not worry. The sections below cover every cause in detail, with specific solutions for each.
Understanding How a Network Switch Should Work
To diagnose the problem effectively, it helps to understand how data flows from your internet service provider all the way to the devices on your switch. Once you understand the correct path, spotting where the signal breaks becomes much easier.
Here is how a properly configured wired network flows. Your ISP delivers internet through a modem or fiber ONT. That modem connects to your router’s WAN port. The router receives the internet signal, handles NAT (network address translation), and runs a DHCP server that assigns IP addresses to every device on your local network. The router then distributes that connection through its LAN ports.
A network switch connects to one of those LAN ports. The switch is essentially a traffic distributor. It takes the single connection from your router and splits it across multiple ports so you can connect several wired devices. The switch does not assign IP addresses, does not do NAT, and does not connect to the internet on its own. It simply passes traffic between your router and your devices.
Every device connected through the switch still gets its IP address from the router’s DHCP server. The switch is transparent in this process. The router sees each device, assigns it an IP, and routes traffic accordingly. This is why the switch must connect to a router (or a modem in router mode), not directly to a bare modem.
Think of it this way. The modem is the on-ramp to the internet highway. The router is the traffic controller that decides who gets to use the highway and hands out permits (IP addresses). The switch is just a parking lot that lets more cars line up to talk to the traffic controller. If the switch is not connected to the traffic controller, no one gets a permit.
This flow also explains why connecting a switch directly to a modem fails. The modem hands out exactly one public IP address from your ISP. Without a router to share that address through NAT and DHCP, only one device can use it. The switch cannot do this sharing on its own.
Reason 1: Connected to the Wrong Port on Your Router or Modem
This is the single most common reason a network switch will not pass internet to connected devices. Users plug the uplink cable from the switch into the wrong port, and nothing works downstream. The fix takes five seconds once you know what to look for.
LAN Port vs WAN Port Confusion
Most routers have one WAN port and four LAN ports. The WAN port (often labeled “Internet” or colored differently) connects to your modem. The LAN ports (labeled 1 through 4, or sometimes just numbered) are for your local devices, including your switch. If you accidentally plug the switch cable into the WAN port, the router treats the switch as if it were an incoming internet feed. Devices on the switch end up on the wrong side of the router’s NAT, and they cannot reach the internet.
The solution is simple. Move the cable from the WAN port to any LAN port. Power cycle the switch and test your devices again. This one change resolves the issue for a large percentage of users we see in forum posts.
Connecting a Switch Directly to a Modem
Another frequent mistake is connecting the switch directly to a standalone modem, bypassing the router entirely. A plain modem provides a single public IP address from your ISP. It has no DHCP server and no NAT capability. Only one device can pull an IP, and the rest get nothing.
If your setup is modem to switch to devices, you need to add a router between the modem and the switch. The router handles IP assignment and NAT so every device on the switch gets online. Alternatively, if your ISP provided a combination gateway device (modem plus router in one box), you can connect the switch directly to one of its LAN ports.
ISP Gateway Confusion: Bridge Mode vs Router Mode
Many ISPs provide combination devices that function as both modem and router. Comcast Xfinity, Spectrum, AT&T, and others commonly install these gateways. Here is where things get tricky.
If your ISP gateway is in router mode, it has LAN ports you can connect a switch to directly. It handles DHCP and NAT just like a standalone router. Your switch and all devices on it will work fine.
If your ISP gateway is in bridge mode, it acts as a plain modem. It passes the public IP through to whatever is connected to it, expecting that device to be a router. If you connect a switch to a bridged gateway, the switch has no way to assign IP addresses, and nothing downstream gets internet.
Bridge mode is common when users have their own standalone router behind the ISP gateway. The gateway is bridged so the user’s router handles everything. If you removed that router but left the gateway in bridge mode and connected a switch, you will have no internet on the switch.
To fix this, log into your ISP gateway’s admin panel (usually at 192.168.1.1 or 10.0.0.1) and check the mode. If it is in bridge mode and you no longer have a standalone router, switch it back to router mode. Alternatively, put your router back between the gateway and the switch.
Special ISP Port Configurations
Some ISP gateways have special port behaviors that are not documented. For example, certain AT&T gateways reserve specific ports for TV set-top boxes. Certain Comcast gateways may have one port configured differently for voice service. If you plug your switch into one of these reserved ports, devices may not get internet even though the port appears to work.
Try each LAN port on the gateway one at a time. If only certain ports pass internet through the switch, you have found a port-specific configuration issue. Use the working port and avoid the reserved ones.
Reason 2: Physical Connection Problems
Physical layer issues are the second most common cause of switch internet problems. Cables go bad, ports fail, and connections work loose over time. The tricky part is that a physical problem does not always mean no link light. A cable can be damaged enough to fail data transmission while still showing a connection indicator.
Faulty Ethernet Cables
Ethernet cables are more fragile than they look. A cable that has been stepped on, bent sharply at a corner, pinched under furniture, or run through a hot attic can develop internal damage. The copper wires inside can break or short without any visible damage to the outer jacket.
We have seen cases where a Cat6 cable run through an attic works fine for a direct device connection but fails when a switch is added in the middle. The switch adds a small amount of signal degradation that pushes the already-damaged cable past its working threshold. The direct connection barely works, and the switch connection does not work at all.
To test for a bad cable, swap it with a known good one. Use a cable you have tested with a device directly on the router and confirmed working. If the problem follows the cable, you have found your issue. Replace it with a quality Cat5e or Cat6 cable from a reputable manufacturer.
Cat5e vs Cat6 vs Older Cables
If you are using very old Cat5 (not Cat5e) cables, they may not handle gigabit speeds reliably. Cat5 is rated for 100Mbps and can cause auto-negotiation problems with modern gigabit switches and routers. The switch may fall back to a slower speed or fail to establish a link entirely.
Cat5e supports gigabit speeds up to 328 feet (100 meters) and is fine for almost all home setups. Cat6 offers the same speed over that distance but with better shielding against interference. For most users, Cat5e is perfectly adequate. The key is making sure you are not mixing very old Cat5 cables with modern equipment.
Do You Need a Crossover Cable?
This question comes up constantly in forums. The short answer for modern equipment is no. Every consumer switch and router built in the last 15-plus years supports auto-MDIX, which automatically detects whether a port needs a straight-through or crossover connection and adjusts internally.
You only need a crossover cable if you are connecting two older devices of the same type directly, such as two old switches to each other or a computer directly to another computer. For connecting a switch to a router, a standard straight-through ethernet cable works perfectly. If someone told you that you need a crossover cable, that advice is almost certainly outdated.
Dead Switch Ports
Individual ports on a switch can fail while the rest of the switch works fine. Power surges, static discharge, and physical wear can damage specific port circuitry. If one device works through the switch but another does not, try moving the non-working device to a different port on the switch.
If the device works on port 3 but not port 2, port 2 is likely dead. The switch may still be usable with that one port avoided, but it is a sign of hardware degradation. If multiple ports start failing, it is time to replace the switch.
Long Cable Runs and Signal Degradation
Ethernet has a maximum reliable run length of 328 feet (100 meters). If your cable run from router to switch to device approaches or exceeds this limit, signal degradation can cause intermittent connectivity or complete failure. Long runs through hot attics or near electrical wiring can pick up interference that degrades the signal further.
If you have a long cable run that works for a direct connection but fails when a switch is added, the switch is adding latency and signal loss that the already-marginal cable cannot handle. Try shortening the run, using higher quality shielded Cat6 cable, or adding a repeater.
Reason 3: DHCP Not Assigning IP Addresses Through the Switch
DHCP is the process by which your router assigns IP addresses to devices on your network. When DHCP fails through a switch, devices may show as connected but have no actual internet access. This is one of the most confusing symptoms because everything looks like it should work.
How DHCP Works Through a Switch
When a device connects to the network, it sends out a DHCP discovery request asking for an IP address. This request is a broadcast message that goes to every port on the switch. The switch forwards it to the router, which responds with an IP address, subnet mask, default gateway, and DNS server information. The device configures itself and can now access the internet.
The switch is transparent in this process. It does not participate in DHCP. It simply passes the broadcast along. If the switch is working and connected to a router properly, DHCP should flow through without any issue.
First Device Works, Second Does Not
This is a specific scenario we see frequently in forum posts. The first device you connect through the switch gets internet fine. The second device connects but gets no internet. This usually points to one of two problems.
The first possibility is an IP address conflict. Two devices are trying to use the same IP address. This can happen if a device has a static IP set that falls within the router’s DHCP range. The router assigns that IP to a new device via DHCP, and now both devices are fighting over the same address. Check your router’s DHCP lease table and look for conflicts.
The second possibility is a DHCP pool exhaustion. Some routers have small DHCP pools (the range of addresses they can assign). If you have many devices on your network, the pool can run out of addresses. New devices connect but do not get an IP. Log into your router and check the DHCP pool size. Expand it if necessary.
APIPA Addresses: The 169.254.x.x Tell
If a device shows a 169.254.x.x IP address, it means DHCP failed entirely. The device assigned itself an automatic private IP address (APIPA) as a fallback. This address cannot reach the internet. It confirms that the device is physically connected to something but is not communicating with the router’s DHCP server.
To check on Windows, open Command Prompt and type ipconfig. On macOS, open Terminal and type ifconfig. If you see 169.254.x.x, the device is not getting an IP from the router through the switch.
This points to either a switch that is not actually passing traffic to the router, or a router DHCP problem. Test by connecting the device directly to the router. If it gets a proper IP there, the switch is blocking DHCP traffic somehow.
Static IP Conflicts
If you or someone else manually set a static IP on a device that is also being assigned by the router’s DHCP server, you get a conflict. One device works, the other gets knocked off. This is especially common with printers, NAS drives, and IP cameras that users configure with static IPs without realizing they overlap the DHCP range.
The fix is to either set the static IP outside the DHCP range or use DHCP reservation in the router. With DHCP reservation, the router always assigns the same IP to a specific device based on its MAC address, eliminating conflicts.
Reason 4: Speed or Duplex Mismatch
Speed and duplex mismatches are less common than cable or port issues but can be maddening to diagnose. They cause intermittent connectivity, slow speeds, or complete connection failure that comes and goes seemingly at random.
What Is Speed and Duplex?
Speed refers to the data rate of the connection: 10Mbps, 100Mbps, or 1000Mbps (gigabit). Duplex refers to whether data flows in both directions simultaneously (full duplex) or one direction at a time (half duplex). Modern ethernet runs at full duplex.
When two connected devices negotiate speed and duplex automatically, they find the highest common setting and use it. This process is called auto-negotiation. When it works, everything is fine. When it fails, you get a mismatch that causes errors, dropped packets, and connectivity problems.
How Auto-Negotiation Fails
Auto-negotiation can fail for several reasons. One device may be manually forced to a specific speed and duplex while the other is set to auto. Older or cheaper switches may have buggy auto-negotiation implementations. Damaged cables can cause the negotiation to fail or settle on a degraded connection.
The most common scenario is a network adapter (NIC) on a PC that has been manually set to 100Mbps full duplex. The switch tries to auto-negotiate, the two sides fail to agree, and the connection drops to half duplex or fails entirely. The fix is to set the NIC back to auto-negotiation in the adapter properties.
How to Check and Fix NIC Speed Settings
On Windows, open Device Manager, expand Network Adapters, right-click your ethernet adapter, and select Properties. Go to the Advanced tab and look for Speed and Duplex settings. If it is set to anything other than Auto-Negotiation, change it back. Apply and restart.
On macOS, go to System Settings, Network, click your ethernet connection, then Details. Check the hardware configuration for speed settings.
After resetting to auto-negotiation, power cycle the switch and test connectivity. If the problem was a forced speed setting, this resolves it immediately.
Switch-Side Speed Issues
On managed switches, individual ports can be configured with forced speed and duplex settings. If someone configured a port for 100Mbps and you plug in a gigabit device, the connection may fail or run at reduced speed. Log into the switch management interface and verify all ports are set to auto-negotiation unless you have a specific reason otherwise.
Reason 5: Managed Switch Configuration Issues
If you are using a managed or smart switch instead of a simple unmanaged one, configuration problems become a possibility. Managed switches offer advanced features like VLANs, port security, and Spanning Tree Protocol. These features are powerful but can block internet access if misconfigured.
VLAN Misconfiguration
VLANs (Virtual Local Area Networks) divide a single physical switch into multiple logical networks. If your switch ports are assigned to the wrong VLAN, devices will not be able to reach the router and will have no internet access.
The most common mistake is having the uplink port (connected to the router) on a different VLAN than the device ports. For a simple home network, all ports should be on the default VLAN (usually VLAN 1). If you are not intentionally using VLANs, verify that every port is on VLAN 1 and that no VLAN tagging is enabled on access ports.
Port Security Blocking Devices
Some managed switches have port security features that limit how many MAC addresses can connect through each port. If port security is enabled with a low limit, the first device connects fine but additional devices are blocked. This produces the exact symptom of “first device works, second does not.”
Check the port security settings on your switch. Disable it or raise the MAC address limit if you are connecting multiple devices through a single port (such as daisy-chaining another switch).
Spanning Tree Protocol Blocking Ports
STP (Spanning Tree Protocol) prevents network loops by blocking redundant paths. If STP detects what it thinks is a loop, it blocks ports to protect the network. This can happen if you accidentally created a physical loop by connecting two switches together with two cables.
If ports are being blocked by STP, the switch management interface will show them in a blocking state. Remove any accidental loops and the ports should transition to forwarding after a brief delay.
Unmanaged vs Managed: Which Do You Have?
If you are not sure whether your switch is managed or unmanaged, here is a quick way to tell. An unmanaged switch is plug-and-play with no configuration interface. You plug it in and it works. Brands like the Netgear GS305, TP-Link TL-SG105, and most basic 5-port or 8-port metal switches are unmanaged.
A managed switch has a web interface or command-line interface for configuration. It may have an IP address assigned to it. Smart switches (web-managed) sit in between, offering basic configuration through a simple web page. If your switch has a management interface and you or someone else changed settings, configuration could be your problem.
If you have a managed switch and do not need the advanced features, a factory reset will clear all configurations and return it to unmanaged-like behavior. This is a fast way to eliminate configuration as a variable.
Daisy-Chaining Switches: Common Pitfalls
Daisy-chaining means connecting one switch to another switch instead of connecting both switches directly to the router. This is common in larger homes where you have a switch in one room connected to another switch in a different room. While it can work, it introduces several potential problems.
The most common daisy-chain issue is a network loop. If switch A connects to switch B through two cables instead of one, you create a loop. Traffic circulates endlessly between the two switches, creating a broadcast storm that kills network performance for every connected device. STP can prevent this on managed switches, but unmanaged switches have no protection.
Another issue is exceeding the ethernet cable length budget. If the cable from router to switch A is 250 feet and the cable from switch A to switch B is another 150 feet, the total run exceeds the 328-foot limit. Signal degradation causes intermittent or failed connectivity.
If you are daisy-chaining and internet dies when you connect the second switch, unplug the second switch immediately. Check for accidental loops. Verify each cable run is under 328 feet. Connect each switch directly to the router if possible, using separate LAN ports.
When to Suspect a Faulty Switch
Sometimes the switch itself is the problem. Hardware failures do happen, especially after power surges, overheating, or simply age. Here are the signs that your switch has gone bad and needs replacement.
Lights On But No Data
If all the port LEDs illuminate normally but no device gets internet, the switch’s internal circuitry may have failed. The power supply works and the ports detect connections, but the switching fabric (the part that actually moves data between ports) is dead. This is a confirmed hardware failure.
Test by connecting a device directly to the router, bypassing the switch entirely. If the device works on the router but not through the switch, and you have already ruled out cables and configuration, the switch is bad.
Intermittent Connectivity That Worsens Over Time
If the switch works for a while then starts dropping connections, especially as it warms up, the internal components may be degrading. This is common in switches that run hot or are stacked in enclosed spaces without ventilation. The failure starts as occasional drops and progresses to complete failure.
Works After Power Cycle, Then Fails Again
A switch that works perfectly after you unplug and replug it, then fails again after a few hours or days, has a hardware or firmware issue. Power cycling clears temporary memory and resets the switching logic, but the underlying problem returns. This pattern is a strong indicator of failing hardware.
Power Surge Damage
Power surges from lightning strikes, grid fluctuations, or faulty UPS units can damage network equipment. The switch may still power on and show link lights, but internal damage prevents proper data switching. If you had a recent power event and the switch stopped working afterward, surge damage is likely.
How to Confirm the Switch Is Bad
The definitive test is substitution. Borrow a known working switch and swap it in. If everything works with the new switch and nothing works with the old one, the old switch is confirmed faulty. Network switches are inexpensive enough that replacing a suspect unit is often faster than extensive testing.
Step-by-Step Isolation Method
If you have worked through the common causes above and still cannot identify the problem, use this systematic isolation method. It eliminates variables one at a time until you find the culprit.
Step 1: Test at the router. Connect a device directly to a router LAN port with a known good cable. If it gets internet, your router and modem are working. If it does not, your problem is upstream of the switch and you need to troubleshoot the router or modem first.
Step 2: Test the cable. Take the cable you plan to use between the router and switch and connect a device directly to the router with it. If the device gets internet, the cable is good. If not, replace the cable.
Step 3: Add the switch. Connect the tested cable from the router LAN port to the switch. Connect one device to the switch with another known good cable. If it gets internet, the switch works for at least one device. If not, the switch or its configuration is the problem.
Step 4: Test each port. Move the device to each port on the switch one at a time. If some ports work and others do not, individual ports are failing. If no ports work, the switch has a broader issue.
Step 5: Add additional devices one at a time. If the first device works through the switch, connect a second device. If the second device fails, you may have a DHCP pool or IP conflict problem. Check the router’s DHCP lease table.
Step 6: Check device-specific issues. Some devices, particularly IoT devices, smart TVs, and certain gaming consoles, have quirks. They may need specific DHCP settings, firmware updates, or even direct router connections. Test the failing device directly on the router to see if it works there.
By following these steps in order, you narrow down the problem to a specific component. This methodical approach is much more effective than randomly swapping cables and restarting things.
Access Point vs Switch: Knowing the Difference
One of the biggest sources of confusion we see in forums is the difference between a network switch and a wireless access point. Users buy a switch expecting Wi-Fi coverage and are surprised when their wireless devices cannot connect.
A network switch distributes wired ethernet connections. It has physical ports that you plug ethernet cables into. It does not broadcast Wi-Fi. It does not have antennas. It does not show up as a wireless network on your phone or laptop.
A wireless access point (or a router in access point mode) broadcasts a Wi-Fi signal that wireless devices can connect to. It may also have ethernet ports, but its primary function is wireless connectivity.
If your goal is to extend Wi-Fi to another part of your house, a switch alone will not do it. You need either a wireless access point connected to the switch, or a mesh Wi-Fi system, or a powerline adapter with built-in Wi-Fi. The switch gives you wired connectivity in that location, which you can then use to feed an access point for wireless coverage.
Device-Specific Quirks Through Switches
Some devices are pickier about their network connection than others. Forum data shows consistent patterns where certain device types fail through switches while others work fine.
IoT Devices and Smart Home Hardware
Many IoT devices (smart plugs, bulbs, cameras, doorbell cameras) have minimal network stacks and can be sensitive to network conditions. Some require multicast or broadcast traffic that certain switches handle differently. If your smart home devices work directly on the router but fail through a switch, try a different switch or connect them directly when possible.
Smart TVs and Streaming Devices
Some smart TVs, particularly older Samsung and LG models, have network adapters that negotiate poorly with certain switches. They may work at 100Mbps directly on the router but fail to establish a link through a gigabit switch. Forcing the TV’s network speed to 100Mbps full duplex in its settings sometimes resolves this.
Gaming Consoles
Gaming consoles generally work well through switches, but some users report NAT type issues when connecting through a switch to certain routers. This is usually a router UPnP or port forwarding configuration, not a switch problem. Check your router’s NAT settings if your console reports a strict or moderate NAT type.
NVR and Security Camera Systems
NVR systems often need a direct router connection because they use specific ports or require multicast for camera discovery. Adding a switch between the NVR and router can sometimes break camera communication. If your NVR worked on the router but not through the switch, check the manufacturer’s documentation for switch compatibility requirements.
FAQ’s
Why won’t my switch connect to the internet but other devices will?
This usually happens because the switch is plugged into the wrong port on the router (WAN instead of LAN), the cable between the router and switch is faulty, or the switch has a dead port. Check that the cable goes from a router LAN port to the switch, swap the cable for a known good one, and test each port on the switch individually.
How to tell if a network switch is faulty?
Signs of a faulty switch include port lights illuminating but no data passing through, intermittent connectivity that worsens over time, the switch working after a power cycle then failing again, and all devices losing connection simultaneously while WiFi still works. The definitive test is swapping in a known working switch to see if the problem resolves.
Why can’t I get my switch to connect to Wi-Fi?
A network switch is a wired-only device and cannot connect to Wi-Fi or create a wireless network. If you need Wi-Fi coverage in another room, you need a wireless access point, a mesh Wi-Fi system, or a range extender. A switch only distributes wired ethernet connections through physical cables.
Why is a device connected to my network but can’t provide internet?
This typically means the device has a local connection but no valid IP address or gateway. Check for a 169.254.x.x APIPA address, which means DHCP failed. The device may also have an IP conflict with another device, incorrect DNS settings, or a default gateway problem. Restarting the router and device usually resolves temporary DHCP failures.
Can I connect a network switch directly to my modem?
Only if your modem is actually a combination modem-router gateway. A standalone modem provides a single IP address and has no DHCP server, so connecting a switch directly will not work. You need a router between the modem and the switch to handle IP address assignment and network address translation.
Do I need a crossover cable to connect a switch to my router?
No. All modern consumer switches and routers support auto-MDIX, which automatically handles cable type detection. A standard straight-through ethernet cable (Cat5e or Cat6) works perfectly for connecting a switch to a router. Crossover cables are only needed for very old equipment that lacks auto-MDIX support.
Conclusion
When your network switch will not pass internet to connected devices, the problem almost always falls into one of the categories we covered above. Start with the quick 30-second checklist, then work through the detailed sections if the fast fixes do not resolve it. Most issues trace back to a wrong port, bad cable, DHCP failure, speed mismatch, or misconfigured managed switch.
If you have exhausted every troubleshooting step and the switch still does not work, it is likely a hardware failure. Network switches are affordable and easy to replace. Swap in a new one and your connected devices should be back online in minutes.